Nose: The qualities of a long ex-bourbon maturation are immediately obvious here – guava, melon, gooseberries and grapefruit alongside delicately polished aromatic wood. Orange marmalade and fresh lychee join hawthorn bushes, daisies and lacquered mahogany. Everything is fresh, ripe and vibrant, despite being underpinned by time-served oakiness. Water gives more shape to the orange – peels and zest, whilst also adding a notes of shelled cashews and freshly pressed laundry.
Taste: Wood panelling and teak oil sit with orange, tangerine, guava and melon – we’re not far off Umbongo here. Pink wafer biscuits, milk chocolate sponge cake, dusted petit fours and Italian meringue sit alongside leather armchairs, old bound books and gentle notes of earthy dunnage floors. Reduction changes the composition – softer on the arrival with moist soils – spicier in the back with wine poached pears, white pepper and oaky dryness.
Finish: Medium to long and offering brighter (red) berry fruit and a lovely fading oak-driven dryness.
Long-time readers will know I always have time for well-aged Glenlossie. This is no exception. An excellent marriage of animated bright fruitiness with gentle, austere wood. The wonders of refill ex-bourbon. Joint pick of the month.
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