ABV: 49.1% Distillery: Glengoyne Bottler: That Boutique-y Whisky Company Region: Highlands
Boutique-y’s first batch of Glengoyne 17 year old was bottled earlier this year. The label highlights two aspects (no doubt there’s more that I’ve missed) of the distillery’s location and history in its bottle label cartoon. Firstly, the preponderance of walkers visiting the distillery – which is located on the popular West Highland Way. Secondly, the distillery’s original name of ‘Burnfoot’ – stylised here by the walking contingent having to traipse across a road of hot coals.
The bottling is a batch of 1204 bottles (so more than a single cask – a vatting of likely three or possible more), delivered at 49.1% ABV and available via Master of Malt for £174.95 for a 50cl. £8.75 per 25ml dram – pricey for a whisky of this age in my view.
Nose: Bakery-forward with brioche buns, steamed pudding, gingerbread men and toast. The sherry influence offers unctuousness from honey, golden syrup and light treacle, whilst reduced fruits – figs and dates – provide a solid fruit-driven centre. In the background, floralness from sweet rose (Turkish Delight) alongside burnt toffee and a combination of lacquered and slightly charred wood. Dilution adds creaminess with crème brule and vanilla cream whilst brighter berry fruits (raspberry and redcurrant) push through.
Taste: The arrival is immediately velvety offering some well-judged texture with just the right amount of mouth feel. Chocolate Swiss rolls and gingercake sit with plums, blackcurrants and orange segments whilst toffee apples and chopped walnuts add sweet fruitiness and nuttiness in equal measure. The mid-palate moves towards the cask with waxed tables and polished oak, before green and fruit teas take over in the back palate. Water adds a tinned fruit dimension – a salad of apples, pears and banana peels all preserved in their own juices.
Finish: Long with dusty ginger and nutmeg sitting with fading walnuts and ground chocolate.
This Boutique-y 17 year old Glengoyne is entirely relaxed and well-behaved. So much so, I’m thinking that this is derived (at least in part) from a refill cask. The sherry is well-integrated and favours patisserie and bakery aromas and flavours – at least until reduced, when some of the natural underlying fruitiness comes to the fore. Entirely pleasant and worryingly quaffable.
Review sample provided by Atom Brands
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