The first of an amusing triptych entitled ‘The Decent of Sponge’ which cues off of the March of Evolution by Rudolph Zallinger – only in reverse and with plenty of ludicrous, but often accurate observations on the devolvement of modern whisky drinkers from inquisitive explorers all the way to their current computer-bound, auction obsessed state.
Each edition is drawn from a refill sherry cask. This opener, a 25 year old filled in 1995 that produced 528 bottles at 54.5%.
Nose: Immediate expected waxiness alongside clay and gravel alluvialness. Touches of porridge and sack cloth join lemon rind and grapefruit zest, whilst very delicate red berries sit alongside loose change cooper coins and a dash of walnut oil. The addition of water brings melon and lemon posset together with chalk dust and woollen jumpers.
Taste: Fatty and textured with butter and greases. This weight is heightened further with nut and mineral oils. Copper piping and well-polished furniture sit with limoncello sweetness and sharpness, whilst touches of sherry - brown sugar cubes and sultanas develop toward minerality with granite and limestone. Reduction offers more of a fruit salad with preserved lemons and tangerines drizzled in syrup and served with leafy green, fresh sherry.
Finish: Long with citrus and mineral cues.
This Clynelish is at the light end of sherry maturation – and to my mind its all the better for it. There is outstanding, textbook mouthfeel and poise throughout with the sherry influence offering additional nuance rather than conducting the entire orchestral to its tune. The best of the trilogy (quadrilogy?!) for my palate – but I’m often quite the purist.