Ending this month’s outturn review is the second Bunna offering of the month. This heavily peated 10 has been matured in a 2nd fill oloroso hogshead in an ex-bourbon hogshead before being re-racked into a 2nd fill oloroso hogshead (turns out this movement was not indicated in the official outturn listing so I've updated here for accuracy).
Nose: Instantly herbal with sage and onion stuffing and clove-studded ham. Burnt electrical board and molten plastic join almond paste and a cardamon and coconut lassi. In the background, fish sauce together with a sour tinge of squeezed lime. Dilution heads coast-wards with both sandy loams and overt salinity joining sea food stew and touches of heavily reduced berries.
Taste: Bolder and more concentrated. Concrete and steel girders provide an immediate industrial edge which is emboldened further by BBQ coals, hickory chips and fireplace ash. Salt-baked fish and charred meats are dosed in antiseptic lotion before sweetness of apple sauce provides a late-game lift. Water considerably softens the expressions with hedgerow berries reduced into a thick meaty gravy – but tarriness still lurking throughout.
Finish: Long with burnt oak and coal dust alongside meat stock.
Peat and meaty is the order of the day for this Bunnahabhain which expresses both aspects throughout – with occasional welcome diversions into more coastal notes. Bold and brash in equal measure – this will no doubt sell quickly – though those expecting a more typical sweet + smoke combination might well be surprised with what’s on offer here.