The first of two Bunnas in this month’s outturn. This Oily & Coastal edition has been aged for 13 years in a refill ex-bourbon hogshead.
Nose: An appealing combination of salted toffee, cream cheese, pickle and fermenting beer sits alongside cold cream, toasted buns and buttered scones. Reduction adds some sweeter notes with tart cases and French crepes alongside a daub of fairground rollercoaster grease and a prize of candy floss and gem necklaces.
Taste: Bolder on the palate with beef roast and sausage meat spiced with paprika and toasted oak. Hard toffee coins and chopped herbs sit with pickled cabbage whilst yoghurt creaminess joins wasabi heat. Dilution expresses balsamic sharpness and adds touches of salinity throughout.
Finish: Short to medium with zesty lemon, salty and residue pickle juice.
Rather savoury Bunnahabhain with plenty of character and unexpected asides throughout. It’s not mainstream, but it works both natural and diluted. Likably left-field.