Yet another full-term sherried offering this month – this time via a Bunnahabhain which has been maturing in a refill sherry butt since 2004.
Nose: Creamy-forward sherried fruits – redcurrants, raspberries and black berry tarts with crème caramel and whipped cream – together with raisins, sultanas and a slab of chocolate cake. These are joined by a gentle vein of coastalness – seabreeze and jagged rocks. Dilution furthers this maritime link with flecks of salt and rock pools.
Taste: The arrival offers plump ripe berries and confectionery – hedgerow raspberries and strawberry boot laces alongside redcurrant jelly, gateaux and fig rolls. Again minerality is present – in the back palate – salt, granite and graphite. Water reveals engine grease and puffs of industrial smoke alongside bread rolls, white pepper and charred cask heads.
Finish: Medium with fading rich jammy fruits and a scattering of biscuit crumbs.
A fascinating grudge match between sweetness and coastalness which for me requires a touch of dilution for both competitors to properly limber up. Nevertheless very tasty either way.