Heading over to Braes of Glenlivet for this surprisingly mature and surprisingly reasonably priced 22 year old drawn from a refill ex-bourbon hogshead.
Nose: Quite subdued and softly spoken. An initial creamed horseradish dissipates quickly, but the overall creamy impression is retained throughout. Kitchen flowerboxes, blooming sunflowers, linen sheets and cornflakes sit with Dairy Lee triangles, creamed rice and pink wafer biscuits. Despite the high 50s ABV, dilution seems ill advised here – it quickly washes out the subtle nose, offering little more than a vague sense of floral porridge.
Taste: Much more expressive and expansive on the palate. Nutmeg spiced buns and apple and pear compote is joined by white grapes and gooseberries. Polished oak sits with an array of baked goods – coconut macaroons, puff pastry and pancake batter. The addition of water is much more beneficial here – the palate retains its shape and structure whilst expressing sliced apples, pepperiness and metholated oak.
Finish: Quite long with polished wood and fizzing white pepper.
A tale of two halves for this older Braeval. A cowed and vague (when reduced) nose can’t keep pace with the much more communicative and entertaining palate. Simply better in the mouth than on the nose.