Our opening gambit heads over to Benrinnes for a 12 year old that has spend 9 of those years inside and ex-bourbon hogshead before being interestingly transferred into a 1st fill marsala barrique. Not a total uniqueness – Frequent Flyers bottled a 15 year old marsala finish last year – but nevertheless, not a common combination by any measure.
Nose: A fruit-forward medley of redcurrants and blackberries served with pancakes and waffles. Then a typically Benrinnes savoury note coming from old bread and aged cheese that sits together with dark cherry yoghurt. The addition of water reveals some brighter notes with ginger jelly sweets, lime zest and crackerbread. It also amplifies the umami – oregano and doughy loaf.
Taste: Rich and sweet, but still offering a solid equilibrium between the 1st fill marsala, original cask and distillate character. Rolled marzipan, red and dark berry compote, sour cherries and brandy snaps open before brown sugars, ginger spices and touches of roast meat develop. Reduction pushes the spices up – ginger in particular, alongside chopped almonds.
Finish: Medium in length with lighter red fruits and zesty lime.
There’s immediate tastiness here, but this is a Benrinnes which has been toyed with, and it’s pleasing that the manipulation has both been impactful and well-judged. Just enough cask to provide the influence required, not enough to smother the spirit. Likable.