Benriach – laid down in September 2009 and then drawn from a 1st fill ex-bourbon barrel 8 years later. View on SMWS
Nose: Plenty of fruitiness here with confectionary – Chewits and marshmallows – and orchards – orange peels and freshly picked raspberries, berry yoghurt and strawberry sorbet. Florals also play their part with honeysuckle, heather and potpourri. Peppery spice is tempered by a slightly chalky mineral edge, but both marry well to the inviting fruit combo that dominates. Reduction adds overt sweetness with icing sugar, meringue and candied lemon peels.
Taste: Punchy stuff with intense deeply reduced fruits – raspberry coulis, strawberry liquor and poached oranges. The mid-palate presents a growing pepperiness alongside sappy but drying oak – nothing out of check though – both amalgamate well. Water brings out some biscuity flavours as we as adding sharpness from grapefruit and underipe gooseberries.
Finish: Medium, peppery and with compressed fruits.
Despite its young age, this Benriach is surprisingly dense with flavour. Fruits and spice are the main order of the day, both are delivered with some aplomb. A whisky that’s confident with its spirit quality, and likewise is not overly oaked. A great start to this months’ outturn.
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