Over to Speyside for a 16 year old Aultmore that’s been finished in1st fill PX for around a year following an initial maturation in ex-bourbon. Surely, CTRL+ALT+PX would be a more typical play on the three-finger salute? Deep, Rich & Dried Fruits profile.
Nose: Deep and intense sherry with reduced jammy berries (blackberry and blueberry) and a surprising level of meatiness – ham stock and balsamic dressing. Brown sugar,raisins, sultanas and espresso provide a PX backbone that lighter shortbread biscuits and crumble mix sit on. The addition of water adds substantial aromatic spices into the mix – cinnamon and ginger – heady, but playing well with the rest of the composition.
Taste: Rich sherry-forward flavours led off with chocolate, raisins and sultanas whipped into a deep and luxuriant cake mix. The mid-palate offers a more fruity aspect, emphasising blackberry cordial alongside cinnamon swirls and burnt pastries. In the back palate – underlying earthiness and gentle white pepper. Reduction adds some brightness to the sherried depths – red berries, icing sugar and toffee sauce.
Finish: Medium to long with bitterness developing – earthy and chilli chocolate.
A solid sherry-lovers Aultmore that’s packed full of deep intense flavours, but still with a good level of integration. Only the finish lets this down, where cask astringency comes to the fore. Nevertheless, if big, robust sherry is your thing, this is well worth considering.
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